Hair removal comparison Proven permanent hair removal methods
If permanent hair removal is your main goal, these are the only
ways that have demonstrated in published
clinical data that they can achieve permanent hair removal.
How to read
this chart:
"A" is a good grade, "F" is a bad grade.
Discussion:
Laser and flash lamp (IPL)
Lasers and flash lamps are not listed as proven permanent hair
removal because the limited clinical data indicates that many
clients (sometimes the majority) do not have permanent hair
removal. Some laser studies have demonstrated permanent hair
reduction (see table below).
Electrolysis
There is a trade-off for permanent hair removal. Electrolysis
can painful, slow, costly, and can cause permanent skin damage
if not done properly. Also, if it's not done properly, it is
not as effective. Some patients (anywhere from 7% to 10%) do
not seem to respond to treatment ( Richards
1995, Verdich
1979). To minimize these risks, go to a certified electrologist
after getting a recommendation from a client who is done and
happy. See also my tips on minimizing
pain.
See choosing an electrologist
for details.
I do not recommend attempting your own electrolysis at home
unless you have only a very small number of hairs to remove,
due to the likelihood of causing permanent skin damage. Even
then, you should only attempt it if you have absolutely no other
option financially, because it is extremely difficult and time-consuming.
The failure rate for at-home electrolysis is very high.
Personal units cost around $30, where a professional unit costs
from hundreds (used) to thousands (new). Remember, if the device
doesn't have a needle, it hasn't been proven permanent.
See the section on do-it-yourself
electrolysis for details.
Electric tweezers
Many electric tweezers claim they perform permanent hair removal.
There is no published medical data that shows electric tweezers
can achieve permanent hair removal. In fact, the only published
medical article ( Verdich
1984) found that electric tweezers were temporary. The US
Federal Trade Commission brought charges against one electric
tweezer company for claiming permanence, and the US Food and
Drug Administration has stated there is no body of significant
evidence to show the device is capable of achieving permanent
hair removal.
"Transdermal"
and "transcutaneous"
hair removal
These devices use a conductive gel and an electrified cotton
swab or electrified patch to deliver electricity to the skin.
They often claim permanent hair removal. The US Food and Drug
Administration has not evaluated these claims and considers
them illegal. There is no published medical data indicating
these devices can work as claimed to achieve permanent hair
removal.
Proven permanent hair reduction methods
How to read
this chart "A" is a good grade, "F" is a bad grade.
Discussion:
Electrolysis
Obviously, electrolysis can also achieve permanent hair reduction
if that's your goal.
Laser and flash lamp (IPL)
Some brands of the devices above have been cleared by FDA to
use the term "permanent hair reduction." Only about
31% (one in three) of the subjects in the study that got the
original clearance ( Dierickx, 1998)
had permanent hair reduction. These subjects were also ideal
laser patients (light-skinned and dark-haired). If two out of
three ideal patients didn't have any permanent reduction, then
the general population would see even less success than that.
Multiple treatments at regular intervals may significantly increase
effectiveness, but consumers may reach a point of diminishing
returns, where the amount of improvement gets less and less.
A point may come where the incremental improvement is not worth
the cost of treatment.
As with electrolysis, laser can be painful, slow, costly, and
can cause permanent skin damage if not done properly. Also,
if it's not done properly, it is less effective. Some patients
do not seem to respond to treatment. To minimize these risks,
go to a certified light-based practitioner after getting a recommendation
from a client who is done and happy.
See choosing
a light-based practitioner for details.
Prescription
topical
Vaniqa is a clinically tested prescription topical cream used
to control facial hair in women. It can cause a permanent reduction
of facial hair in about 60% of the women who use it, but the
effect only lasts if you continue using the product.
Over-the-counter topical scams
These "hair growth inhibitor" and "hair retardant"
scams claim they can slow and permanently reduce the amount
of hair. There is no published clinical proof these products
can work as claimed.
Other charts in this section:
Comparison of
methods done at home
Comparison of
methods done professionally
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